Where we are up to with the development of the club racer in 2015.
Hello to all those who have been following the build of this fantastic machine.
Well as you heard in the last update the Club Racer had its debut today with its real engine in place, not a loaned one as previously used. This engine is the real deal. A quick rundown on this engine. 270į rephased and specially lightened crank, high ratio primary drive gears, 750cc big bore kit, flowed head, 36mm DelOrto carburettors with velocity stacks and K&N air filters, modified camshaft with lightened rockers with Porsche adjusters, performance valve springs with Titanium retainers and the spark provided by the best ignition you can buy, a Probe Engineering unit. For a full insight to what has gone into this engine, see the posts below, I am sure you will enjoy reading all about it as much as I have building it. - Daryl
camp at Broadford
Well we got out to the track at about 10.30am, a beautiful day at about 20įC and set our Club Racer shade up and got the Racer ready. I was very ably assisted all day by John Chambers who transported the bike to the track and set up our pit camp with Terry and Alison Gliddon who were there when we arrived. It has been 15 years since I was on a race track, this very one actually so I knew which way to go and how to ride it. It was all the same.
The first session I limited the revs to 5000 rpm and this engine has only had about ten minutes running time here at my shop in sunny Melbourne at Professional Motorcycle Tuning. Boy, does she pull, from 3000 rpm up till 5000 rpm, she just wants to go and go. I couldnít be happier with the results. One thing I did notice was that it needs shorter gearing, we had the gearing set up with a 17 teeth sprocket on the front and a 34 teeth sprocket on the rear. It would be better with 36 or 37 teeth on the rear so it could rev as I was not even getting into top gear. The gearing might be OK for Phillip Island but for this little track a Broadford, I think not. With the first session over and a check over of the Racer all was pretty good. A few little adjustments were made to the tacho mounting and a check over of the engine and a general nut and bolt inspection found all to be OK, no oil leaks, nothing, so I was happy.
you can clearly see these filters are
full of rust and sand from inside the
The second session started in a lot hotter ambient temperature, it was now 31įC and humidity had dropped from 68% to 21%. This time out I upped the revs to 6000 rpm, and she still wanted more, but no, not yet, but it will come. Well I did 1 Ĺ laps and she started to break down, I thought what is going on, like she was running out of fuel, I had plenty in her ??? I rolled into the pits a little annoyed that something was wrong after all I built this engine. Well on close inspection we found the fuel filters totally blocked. I mean you could not even blow through them. Have a look at the photos. Now our Racer has been raced before, with reasonable results, but somewhere along the track the tank has been swapped for another one. I wish I had known. Well we got some more filters and drained the carburettors and cleaned the fuel lines out and gave her a test fire, first kick and she burst into life.
Time for session three. The temperature had dropped to 27įC by now with humidity still at 21%, just nice. Out we go, the first lap I gave her a bit more, 6500 rpm, and she still wanted more. This is going great, then we got a red flag, a rock on the track the size of a cricket ball just as you exit the esses coming onto pit exit straight. So I pulled into the dummy grid and shut her down till the track was clear. Ready to go again, kick, kick, and more kicks, finally burst into life and I was away. As I pulled onto the track she started to break down again, I thought not again, but yes, blocked fuel filters. Shut her down and rolled into the pit, I was not a happy chappy. There was just too much rust and what looks like sand in this fuel tank, so that was it for the day, time to load up and have a cold one.
what did I come away with from the track
debut ? We should have checked the tank
before using it, live and learn. So this
week I will get the fuel tank off and
have it totally cleaned out and a liner
put through it to stop anything coming
through the fuel filters, clean the
carburettors right out and fire her up
again and do an oil change and inspect
the oil filters, but overall I was very
happy with the results for the day. I
only got about 8-10 laps in, not what I
wanted so I would like to get her back
to Broadford to cut some more laps
before we take our Club Racer to the
Island Classic at the end of January,
thanks to John Chambers without who's
help we wouldn't have even made it to
the track. Till
our next update and outing.
This Sunday, 6th December, at The State Motorcycle Complex at Broadford our Club Racer will make it's track debut with the new engine in it. The engine up until now has only got about 15 minutes running on it and has not been started since you saw it at our AGM. This will be a special time for our racer and myself, I have not been on the track since May 2000, so I will have to dust off the leathers and have a play, I'm getting nervous. So I urge as many of you to come and see this historic outing for both the Racer and myself.
For those that intend to
come along please ring my mobile on 0409 164 274,
just in case of any late changes in our plans. We
will have the Club Race Tent set up and a range of
goodies for sale. If you can't make it out look
for another update early next week on how we went.
K&N RU-0510 filters are 3.5" X 5" with a 52mm flange which fits over the short velocity stacks we bought.
DelOrto short velocity stacks over which the filters mount.
We also need a needle and seat
assembly, about $30.00 from Gowanlochís in
Sydney. The one in there now is out of my 34mm
Dellorto's. We also need to sort out what we are
going to use for velocity stacks or air filters.
What is on there at the moment are my stacks off
my 34mm units. I am
hoping to have the dyno fixed soon, fingers
crossed, or someone will die !!! Then we can run
it in under controlled conditions and see how it
This weekend was the Southern Classic
at Broadford and it would have been nice to have
the Racer there, we also missed out on the hill
climb that Stacy ran in at Mount Tarrangower. I am
not sure when the next meeting is to have it
compete. The Island Classic is Aust Day weekend.
Broadford Bonanza is Easter time, I want to run it
The club racer made it to the AGM and to everyone's delight it fired right up and sounded awesome. Click here if you want to hear it for yourself.
HAVE A RUNNER J
Well I said that it would be 99.9%
that our Club Racer would be up and running at our
AGM, now itís 100%. I
started to do a few things on it last night and
found that the big green coils bid not fit under
the tank L And that was after I cut the mounts
off where they normally mount, they are just too
big, I tried to mount them lower but wasnít
happy so I pulled the pin on last nightís
it is better to walk away and come back to it
later. Today was a better day J I went and got another set of coils,
the ones off my own project bike, here is the link
to it. http://www.xs650.org.au/members%20bikes/Daryl%20Hutcheon/Dazzled.htm
The coils are off a Kawasaki ZZR250, I have no
idea of the year but they have the right impedance
and work. With a custom made mounting bracket they
fit just right. With that done it was time to
finished of the wiring for the Probe Ignition. Iím
starting to get nervous as I know it wonít be
long till we are running.
The wiring finished, battery charged up, carbs all primed and the oil in the engine the time had come. Club member, Roger Ogren had flown out from the USA to attend our AGM a see our Club Racer in person. He gave me a hand to fire our beast up, moral support, with about six kicks it roared into life J. It has been over 35 years since I built my first Yamaha XS650 engine and fired that one up and have lost count the number I have built since. As I fired up each one and brought them to life they gave me a warm glow. This one was no different, itís a feeling hard to describe, like creating a new life J It has been a long road to build this machine with parts donated from all over the world, the frame being done up in Sydney and the engine done down here in Melbourne, 800 Kms apart. Has it been worth it?
Hell Yes !!!!
Well itís Friday the 2nd of October. I put the engine through a few heat cycles yesterday to settle things in. Today I will check all the usual things, re-torque the head, valve clearances, cam chain adjustment, and ignition timing. Then it is fit all the body work and give our Club Racer a clean and polish ready for tomorrows AGM where it will get fired up again a few times for those in attendance. So if you want to see our creation in the flesh and hear it running you know where you will have to be, our AGM J
Well I think tomorrow will be the day when our Club Racer finally bursts into life and roars J I got the carbs set up, float levels set, 18mm, put some larger pilot jets in, #65, the mains will be a bit small but that is OK for the time being, we can sort that later. I have got the throttle cable routed in a bit of an odd way, but it works. It would be nice if we had some 45 deg carb tops instead of the 90 deg ones fitted, add that to the shopping list. Also one of the carbs was missing a needle and seat assembly so I raided one out of my 34mm Dellortos, we are using 36mm models. Same for the velocity stacks, they are off my Dellortos as well, just on loan till we get some air filters or velocity stacks. More to add to the shopping list, itís only a short list. All these little jobs seem to take so long, like the breather on the top of the engine, I think that was the original gasket. Old gaskets can be soooo hard to get off and this one was no different, I wonít tell you how long it took to get off, but it wasnít five minutes, believe me !!!
Well whatís left ? Mount the ignition coils up, I need to make some mounting spacers for those, lucky I have a lathe here to do that J Then wire them back to the Probe Ignition and fit a kill switch. Recheck the valve clearances. Put some oil in the crankcases, 2 litres is enough, Shell Thuet recommended that amount. Fit the spark plugs, BP7ES. Hook the fuel up and then give it a kick J J J
Where is the kick starter lever, lucky I had one to use off a customerís engine that I am doing, thank you ???????????, they donít know yet, SSSHHH, they will get it back. So if all goes well you will hear my cheering in another country. Do you know that this build is being watched by not only you here in Australia but by people all over the world. Not bad I think J Well done to all.
tomorrow nightís update J J J I hope I donít have to kick it too
many times, any guessís ????
feedback, comments and thoughts are most welcome.
Well another big day working on our Club Racer, I was hoping that it would get started up today L but we ran into a few more problems. As you know we had a problem with the fitment of the clutch assemble, a small binding problem with the needle bearing in the clutch basket. 30 seconds in my press and it was fixed J, spins free now J. I fitted up all the clutch plates and found that the clutch pack was too thick, a change around of some plates and bingo, all OK. Before it was rubbing on the inside of the clutch cover, not now.
But clutch side issues were not
over L as I was cleaning the cover I found
a crack where the brake lever had hit it. Go back
to the very first photo
on the hand over day and you will see where the
end on the brake pedal is, right where the crack
is L. John held the cover as I tapped the
crack out hoping that it was only cracked on the
inside. Filled the cover with parts washer fluid
and went for lunch. Got back after about 30
minutes and had a look under the cover, F*&^,
canít use that cover, it was leaking fluid out J. Up to the loft. I found another
cover till we can get this one repaired and
polished, then swap them over. It is my only spare
off my engine and there are no extra covers with
the Racer, I thought we had some looking back
through the photos ????
I donít like the look of chrome clutch or stator covers. The stator cover we have has been chromed and it is starting to come off. It will go off to get de-chromed and a light polish just like the clutch cover. Again I thought we had more than one ???? Up to the loft again and grab my spare till the Racer one is done. My covers are just a LOAN till we get the Racer one done, OK !!! With the oil seals all in place, clutch push rod, selector shaft and output shaft, we fitted up the front sprocket and chain. On with the loaner stator cover and adjusted the clutch push rod. All good that side J Fitted the loaner clutch cover with a new gasket. Fitted the sump plate with a new oil filter and gasket and primed up the oil pump, getting closer J Not much more to do J.
I have mentioned ďweĒ a lot
here, my helper of late and ONLY helper, John
Chambers, our Secretary/Treasurer, has been coming
across the last few
weekends to give me a hand to get our Club Racer
ready for the AGM so ALL can see what we can
achieve. John, I thank you so much for all your
help and assistance, and drinking all my coffee J almost time for a cold one J The last 1% of a build takes
99% of the time and I can almost hear our Club
Racer roaring, we will hear it roar at the AGM, I
Almost there, Daryl J
We are just about there J I fitted up the Probe Ignition and time it all up so that bit is done J. These ignitions are the best and so simple to set up. I will run you through on what is done. First of all I must explain that this is a race bike and some of the photos are of it and some are of a stocky, OK.
OK, first of all remove your old points, LH end of the cam, advancer shaft and advancer unit on the RH end. Find your nearest bin and throw them away, they are no longer required. You will also need to get the bushes out of the cam that the advancer shaft rotates on, but only on the LH end. It is explained in the instructions on how to get these out, simple job. You can now put the chrome cover back on the RH end now J.
OK, what next. Mount the round circuit board where the points plate used to be with the writing to the top. Now, find the little rotor, those little dots are the magnets that trigger the unit. I modify the rotor, another special tool that I have made for fitting Probe Ignitions, I drill two holes in the rotor so it can be held easier. Right, fit the rotor up into the LH end of the cam and find TDC (top dead center) on the LH cylinder. Turn the engine over by the nut on the end of stator, not the kick start lever. When you have found TDC on the LH side and you have the rotor positioned as in the photo, I drew the arrow, nip the screw up in the center of the rotor with the allen key supplied, 3/16Ē, thatís the key not the amount required J
Find the black box and plug the lead in from the round circuit board, it can only go in one connector and only one way. In the other plug you hook a 9v battery up to via a little lead supplied. This is so simple J A little light (LED) will come on J, now what you want to do is rotate the engine, they rotate the same way as the wheels spin. Wind it over a couple of times and watch the LED go on and off, cool J
What we want is the LED to go out just as the timing mark lines up with the FULL advance mark on the stator housing. If it doesnít adjust the rotor a bit whichever way it needs to go. Once you have done that, tighten the screw up tight, now you know why I made the special tool and drilled the two holes. I must send Mark at Probe Ignitions an email about my little modification, makes things so much easier.
Right. Done all that. Wind the
engine over a few times and watch the LED go out
just as it reaches the FULL advance mark. Job
done, your ignition is all set J Simple, yes......yes. Next I have to
wire the ignition coils
up, but I will leave that till later. Any
questions ?? You know how to contact me.
Till next update, Daryl J
Second, the clutch, well,
anymore that finger tight on the clutch nut and it
almost locks up. I am going to fit up a standard clutch assemble tomorrow and see if
the clutch hub spins freely, let us hope it does.
If it doesnít ????? And
we did not even have a clutch hub nut in with all
the parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had to find one, a
I am going to set up the high ratio
clutch up on a dummy shaft tomorrow and try to see
why it will not spin freely. After consultation
with Ivan who makes the high ratio primary gear
set it's all been sorted and everything is ok.
Well I said that the Racer would be
at the AGM by 99.9 %, that 0.1 % is raising its
head. If it happens, it WILL be at the AGM, maybe
a static display or as a runner with no RH rear
set, it will be there !!!!!!!! running or not !!!
PS, got the ignition all set up, I
love Probe Ignitions J And while Iím at it, donít
worry, its being built by a committee J I know J And do you guys know that when you
put a later swing arm, as we have, in an early
frame, which it is, the rear shocks are not
parallel, the shocks lean in at the top, as //
\\ understand ???
What else will I find ????????????
nothing I hope that canít be over come J
More progress today, got lots more done than I thought would get done in one day, John Chambers, our Secretary/Treasurer came over today and we had a very busy day, we even forgot to have lunch J. While I modified all the Porsche style adjusters, each one has to be done individually. So itís put a rocker spindle in with its rocker and adjuster, sit the cam in the head, bolt the head cover on, set enough clearance, lock the nut up. Unbolt the cover, pull the spindle out, remove the rocker, put it in a jig I made and modify. Not a five minute job. And there are four to be done, but it is worth it.
While I was doing all this,
John, was busy modifying the throttle cable, a two
into one set-up, to suit our Dellorto carburettors
and quick action throttle
housing. It would be so nice if we could just get
parts off the shelf that fit without having to
modify them. The lower outers had to be made a
little shorter (a couple of times) and the upper
inner longer, but he got it done, a job well done
With that done and all the
adjusters modified I assembled the head cover with
all its rockers in place. Next I put the head on
our 750cc barrels and
fitted the camshaft, timed it up all without
breaking the cam chain. You DO NOT have to break
the cam chain to remove or replace the camshaft.
DO NOT believe everything that the manuals say.
With that done, I put the head cover on and torqued the head down, (we had a little chat J), set the valve clearances and turned the engine over a few times, (they get heavy J) and nothing touched. Time to fit the engine into the frame. John moved some of the other bikes outside while I rolled the bench under my little crane and lifted it off my engine stand. We rolled the frame into position and within a few minutes we had the engine sitting loosely within its mounts. With all the engine mount bolts through their points it was out with the rattle gun and tighten all the bolts.
THE ENGINE IS
There is still a bit of work to go
but as I said earlier I am 99% sure our Club Racer
will be at our upcoming AGM, now I am 99.9% sure.
Time for a cold one I think.
Donít try this with a hack saw as they are hardened so you might need a spare blade or two. You should also notice the rockers. Do you see the holes ? Just another modification to make this a very special engine J .
Today along with a new club member
from New Zealand we also received a donation of a
Megacycle camshaft from Stephen Harris. The
camshaft was apparently a spare bought with a load
of parts from the U.S. so Steve decided to donate
it to us. The cam in question is Megacycle 250-00
which has been rephased to suit a 270į motor.
Then building the crankshaft we used a RH web on the LH side to aid with the balancing set-up. The RH web does not have a taper like the LH web so I had to make up another special tool, to time the camshaft and ignition, a timing disc so to speak. As you can see in the photo it is set at TDC on a standard XS650 stator housing which I have removed the stator windings from. The second one I have had to do, I broke the first one in my lathe trying to machine the centre out of it L.
that I have the cam I can put the head on and
start checking a few clearances. I have already
done some rough calculations and I think we will
be all good. So head on this weekend and into the frame. I am 99%
confident that it will be up and running at our
AGM. I know that I will have some late nights
coming up but I know that it will be worth it.
I will try and post some more photos and tell you where we are at, fingers crossed. J
Well it has been a while since we
had an update on the Club Racer and I had a
pleasant surprise in the post today.
Over the next couple of
weeks I will assemble the cylinder head cover with
the special rockers and the Porsche type elephant
foot adjusters and check all of the critical
clearances, piston to head, piston to valve and
valve to valve, all "should" be OK but
with what we have done I want to leave nothing to
chance. So as you can see we are almost
there with the build of the engine, it will still
take a bit of time but I am sure that the wait
will be well worth it when we can see our own Club
Racer being blasted around the track. Special
thanks to Geoff Bamford of Geoff's XS for
supplying these parts at cost price for our
Part of the process of copying the cam we want to use involves making the original cam a master to copy to our blank and to do this we need to set up the cam in our race motor and check that all is well for clearances i.e. piston to valve and valve to valve but we can't do that until we get a suitable sprocket for the cam. The cam we borrowed for this purpose has an early 34 tooth cam sprocket and our race motor uses a later 36 tooth sprocket so Nick McGinn has come to our rescue by donating one of his kits with a 36 tooth sprocket. Nick makes adjustable cam sprockets and it just so happens the cam we borrowed has one of his kits fitted but for the 34 tooth sprocket.
With the right 36 tooth sprocket we can make sure the cam will work in our race motor and then go ahead and make an exact copy onto our billet cam for the motor knowing everything will work as it should. Thanks again Nick for this donation. If you want one of these adjustable cam sprocket kits for your project contact Nick McGinn at email@example.com for details. Indexing the cam can make a huge difference as to how it will perform.
The billet blank camshaft Matt Moloney sent arrived today along with the modified cam sprocket for the club racer.
As you can see Matt's work is impeccable but we will now need to get some keyways cut so it can be mounted in the machine to grind the lobes to the final shape. We also need to drill and tap the threads to attach the sprocket and buy some high tensile bolts to hold it all together. Matt had not had time or access to a lathe to complete this work but we thank him for what he did achieve and hope this won't take too long to do. The cam blank is also solid and will need to be drilled through the centre to shave some weight as this is made of 4140 chrome moly steel and is quite heavy. The final thing that will have to be done is to have it Nitrided for hardness.
The billet cam is well on the way to being completed, I received confirmation that the blank was posted from Queensland yesterday so we should get it by early next week. We already have the cam we want to copy and are just waiting for an adjustable sprocket so it can be assembled for use. The machine to do the copying is also well under way and should be finished in the next few weeks. Once this is done the engine assembly can be completed after a few minor parts are sourced. It's all looking good to be up and running in the very near future if everything goes to plan. Look for more updates soon.
Time for an update. The ignition arrived today to be installed on the Club Race Bike. This is a Probe ignition that was donated by Mark Whitebook in the USA. These ignitions are the best value for money that you can buy for your Yamaha XS650 be it a standard crankshaft or a rephased unit and many other motorcycles as well.
The beauty of these
ignitions is that the only moving part is the
small rotor next to the black box. It does away
with the advance unit on the right hand end of the
camshaft as the advance curve is in the black box.
This unit also has an
In a future update I will
show you all how easy it is to fit and set the
timing once I have the camshaft fitted to the
engine. We are getting closer to fire
Daryl tells me Frank Meade has made a cash donation to the club racer, thanks Frank all donations are gratefully received. Also the Probe ignition needed for the race motor has been donated by new member Mark Whitebook, thanks Mark your donation is very much appreciated.
I contacted Matt Moloney and he has found the blank billet camshaft he made for the racer motor and is posting it and its associated adjustable sprocket down from Queensland. Laurie Moloney, Matt's dad, has located an engine cover and gear selector shaft that had been misplaced and it posting them up to Daryl Hutcheon for the race motor. The fibreglass tank, seat and front guard have also been located and will be forwarded to Daryl as soon as it can be arranged.
Time for another update. As you can see I have fitted the 750cc, 80mm pistons to the conrods and am ready to fit the barrels. You will notice that there are no barrel studs screwed into the top case. I remove them for cleaning purposes and it makes fitting the barrels easier. The plastic piston support plates under the pistons put the pistons at just the right height to slip the barrels on without too much difficulty using piston ring compressors.
Well things are going ahead with
the build at a steady pace along with the rest of
the work I have to do. In this update you can see
that I have the top and bottom case all buttoned
up and gone from one engine stand to another so I
can get the top end on. Next to be done is fit the
750cc big bore kit followed by the cylinder head
that I have already prepared. Almost time to fit
the engine to the frame :)
Well I made a bit of time today to do a little work on our race bike engine, just on the head. I got all the valve springs out and checked their length then I put then in my little tester. As you can see in the photo I compress the spring to a set length and take a reading. Springs do vary a bit, so I found the softest outer spring and set that up with the strongest inner spring so each valve will have the same seat pressure, every little bit counts :)
The head was assembled with Mikes XS performance Stainless Steel valves, springs, collets and seals as well as Kibblewhite bronze guides. The retainers are copies of the Mikes XS performance chrome moly steel ones supplied in the kit but ours are made from Titanium 6ALV6 and chromium nitride coated, these weigh half that of the originals.
More progress, when I am building these engines I remove all the studs out of the top crank case on both the case to case side and also the barrel studs. I do this so I can make sure that the faces are 100% flat. And it also makes it easier to clean and assemble. As you can see I have refitted all the lower studs back into their correct holes from where they came from. The barrel studs I will fit later.
The crankshaft is next to go in aligning the locating pins in the main bearings. I have pulled engines apart where these have not been aligned and damaged the cases. The main bearings also have their oil supply feed to them via small drillings where they are located, if these are blocked and the main bearings don't get an oil feed and then it's good bye crankshaft and that will cost many $$$$$$.
Well as you can see the crankshaft and the two gearbox shafts have been lowered into the top crankcase and are ready for the lower case to be fitted with just a smear of sealant around the outer edges where it matters, but not too much. I use a product called Threebond 1211. It's the best ! Crankcases will be assembled utilising one of Billroy engineering's cases open seal kits.
Well that's it for now, so
stay tuned for when I turn the engine right way up
and start on the top end.
Hello to all of you that are
following this fantastic build. Well as you
can see things are progressing along just fine.
Welcome to 2015 Race bike
update. Well as you can see the crankshaft
has been all pressed up, trued, welded
Some of you might say why couldn't
I get it closer, well there is more than that in
the movement in the bearings.
Stay tune for the next